Day 3: Roncesvalles to Linzoain

Linzoain is a teeny weeny Basque town in the Navarre region of northern Spain just after the Pyrenees.

I made the decision last night not to walk all the way to Zubiri with my Camino family-friends but stop off earlier. Linzoain wasn’t actually on the list of possible places in my book (or on the Camino list) but chatty Spanish Maria, who I met last night, had already booked a bed here at Posada El Camino (Camino Inn) and phoned through for me and got me a place too.

The walk today looks quite arduous but I actually found it relatively easy. The training has paid off, I think. I know I could have gone onto Zubiri or even pushed on beyond (as a few were planning to do!) but I do have more time and I do want to walk with different people. So at midday I hung up my boots for the day here in this lovely village, but it was a bit sad to say goodbye to my friends. It’s funny really how attached you get when you share even just a couple of days on the Camino!

Marina and I set off in the dark at 7 this morning and it was drizzling a tiny bit. The rain was just enough to warrant our rain jackets and we pulled the rain covers over our ruck sacks, but the rain ponchos weren’t needed, luckily. I saw in the Pyrenees how heavy the rain can be, but I’d be really happy not to have to walk in that – but know I might have to!

From the monastery we walked along a forest path in the dark (using torches) -not my favourite part of the day and I’ll try to avoid doing that if I can – and before we knew it we were in the small village of Burguete, and on the way to Espinal. I’d vaguely thought of staying there, but at only 6.5 km from Roncesvalles it was too close, but what a wonderful pretty little village.

We stopped in the cafe … cafe con leche called of course. The proprietor was so friendly … and was doing a roaring trade, also selling fruit which was at least as popular as the pastries and cakes. I love the coffee shops here, they are so different from Finland

On the Camino you have a pilgrims’ pass, and collect stamps on the way to prove your credential of being on the way. So I got stamps at both the cafe and later the tiny supermarket in Viskarret.

Viskarret is a lovely village on a summit, and the two cafes and little shop were very popular with the hungry /thirsty / need of a toilet pilgrims at 11am! To get there we had to cross the Rio Erro which in Springtime must be a huge, roaring river, but right now is a gentle stream.

I tested the stepping stones out before we crossed, so that’s why I have no backpack in the photo! It wasn’t a leap between each pillar but was quite a bit step, and I could imagine it would feel a bit scary if the water level was high and the current was fast!

I enjoyed the walk today – we went through a lot of woodland and farmland, through farm yards, (sharing the route with some cattle at one point – which made me slightly nervous) and I saw wonderful horses including one with a tiny foal.

The views were nice but I have to say I really missed the spectacular views of the Pyrenees!

It’s soon dinner time at Posada El Camino ….

Distance walked on the Camino 15 km

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2 Responses to Day 3: Roncesvalles to Linzoain

  1. Sally C says:

    nice to see some photos, glad you are taking time to enjoy the journey, will be praying for your especially tomorrow

  2. Lorna says:

    Thank you
    Yesterday I couldn’t upload photos as the internet was so slow and the day before there was no internet at all

    They had a fab sign
    No we don’t have wife … talk to each other … and we did!
    It made me think how dependent (if not addicted) we really are!

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